Autumn Cape 2016 A long Term Project Sleeves Part 4

Autumn Cape 2016 A long Term Project

Sleeves Part 4

This blog should be the final one regarding the Sleeves apart from any embellishments. I will dispense with the majority of the making of Sleeve 2 as it mostly is a repeat of Sleeve 1

Side 1 Joined to Back

Prior to starting on the Second Sleeve I finished off the First Sleeve and Side by joining it to the Back of the Cape. In the photograph above I pinned it at the top prior to sewing.

Unlike the Sleeve which I sewed together using Mattress Stitch this time I used Back Stitch. Due to the weight and placing of the join I needed something much stronger.

If you remember in the previous blog the last photograph was the one below. This clearly shows the Side to which the Sleeve is joined is unfinished and held on a Stitch Holder.

First Sleeve

Before I pinned it at the top I slipped the stitches off the Stitch Holder and back on to the needle I had knitted it on. Therefore when I had sewn down as far as I possible I could gauge how many rows were needed to reach the bottom of the Back of the Cape.

Side 1 Extra Rows Added

 

I then could move on to the Second Sleeve. I only took a couple of photographs at essential points.

Second Sleeve Decrease

 

Second Sleeve End of First Pictorial Chart

Second Sleeve Prior to Sewing 

I then proceeded to sew up the Sleeve and then joined that Side to the Back of the Cape. I am not sure if I had miscounted or just sewn it tighter but I needed to add more rows to the bottom.

Side 2 Extra Rows 

So apart from the embellishments that completes the Sleeves, Back and Sides

Both Sides Added 

NB.

Got this Blog finished just in time. Happy Birthday Cayt

Autumn Cape 2016 A long Term Project Sleeves Part 3

Autumn Cape 2016 A long Term Project

Sleeves Part 3

I have now knitted down to 60 Rows (30 Knit and 30 Purl). This completes another A4 Page. I am now going to do a decrease row. I should have 120 Stitches on the needle but I have lost 3. So therefore I only have 117 Stitches on the needle.

I want to decrease to 100 Stitches. I need to remove 17 Stitches from the Sleeve. This I shall do by decreasing as near as I can to the Seam.

I will decrease 9 Stitches at the beginning of the knitting and decrease 8 at the end of the knitting. I am knitting 3 stitches then slipping the second stitch over the third.

I now have 100 Stitches on the needle. At this point I have to alter the Pictorial Chart.

Pictorial Chart First Decrease 100 Stitches

After the decrease on the knit row I carried on knitting and purling as usual until I reached 70 Rows (35 Knit and 35 Purl). I then decreased again on Row 71 only this time I decreased by 10 Stitches (5 Stitches at each end).

Pictorial Chart Second Decrease 90 Stitches

I on carried knitting until I reached 80 Rows (40 Knit and 40 Purl). I then decreased again on Row 81 and again I decreased by 10 Stitches (5 Stitches at each end).

Pictorial Chart Third Decrease 80 Stitches

I on carried knitting until I reached 90 Rows (45 Knit and 45 Purl).  I decreased by 10 Stitches on 91^st Row.

Pictorial Chart Fourth Decrease 70 Stitches

If you look at the above photograph you will see that I have introduced a new colour. I am slowly going to fade out the other colours until it becomes completely green.

Also I have reached the bottom of the Pictorial Chart and have to begin on another chart. 

Pictorial Chart Fifth Decrease 50 Stitches

I decreased by 10 Stitches on 101^st and 111^th Row until I had completed 120 Rows. At that point I had 50 Stitches left on the needle. I then Cast Off

Sleeve 1 End of Written Chart

To recap I started with 120 Stitches which I picked up.  

I knitted 60 Rows (30 Knit and 30 Purl).

I decreased by 17 Stitches (it should have been 20 but I lost 3).

I had 100 Stitches left on needle.

I reached 70 Rows (35 Knit and 35 Purl). I then decreased by 10 Stitches (5 Stitches at each end) leaving 90 Stitches

After 80 Rows (40 Knit and 40 Purl) I decreased by 10 Stitches leaving 80 Stitches and also introduced the green wool.

That completed the First Pictorial Chart

After 90 Rows (45 Knit and 45 Purl) I decreased by 10 Stitches leaving 70 Stitches.

After 100 Rows (50 Knit and 50 Purl) I decreased by 10 Stitches leaving 60 Stitches.

After 110 Rows (55 Knit and 55 Purl) I decreased by 10 Stitches leaving 50 Stitches.

After 120 Rows (60 Knit and 60 Purl) I cast off.

Apart from the sewing up and embellishments that is the First Sleeve Complete.

Sleeve 1 Full Length

Autumn Cape 2016 A long Term Project Sleeves Part 2

Autumn Cape 2016 A long Term Project

Sleeves Part 2

I have continued knitting the first Sleeve in Stocking Stitch. I decided that once I reached 50 rows (25 knit and 25 purl) that I would sew up part of the Sleeve. This is so I could gauge more accurately how it would fall when worn.

Sleeve 1 50 Rows Side View

Mattress Stitch

I am going to try a new method of sewing up. Normally I tend to use Blanket Stitch. However this time I am going to try my hand at Mattress Stitch also known as Edge to Edge Stitch. This stitch was recommended to me by Eleanor of Knit Nottingham. It apparently leaves an invisible seam.

Although I do have a book I have been a little hesitant to try. This stitch is supposedly best for joining items such as a button hole band. For seams that need strength such as sides a Back Stitch is recommended. I am trying the Mattress Stitch on the Sleeve as there is no strength required. This is due to the fact that the weight is on the top of the piece and the seam to be sewn is underneath.

Sleeve 1 50 Rows View from Underneath

Mattress Stitch is a little difficult to explain. Even after reading the book I was a little uncertain. Therefore I resorted to YouTube. After watching the demonstration I had a go. Here is what I did.

Sleeve 1 50 Rows First Step

Thread the needle with yarn and join by making a few stitches at the back of the Sleeve at the beginning of the gap.

Sleeve 1 50 Rows First Step New Colour

The above photograph is pretty much the same as the previous one except I decided that I would change the yarn colour to make it stand out whilst explaining Mattress Stitch

Sleeve 1 50 Rows Pinned

Before I started the stitching I just pinned it at the top to make sure that I had it level. A safety pin would have been ideal but I didn’t have one handy.

Mattress Stitch Full Diagram

 

I have endeavoured to design a diagram to show how Mattress Stitch is sewn. Please bear in mind that this is a 2 dimensional representation of a 3 dimensional work. I am not an artist so this is as good as I can do.

Looking at diagram A, it shows the path of the needle. As you can see the grid represents the knitting albeit in a squared off version. The curly bits on the ends are the edge of the knitting.

I have moved a couple of stitches in from the edge. If you slightly pull apart the stitches you should find what looks like a ladder. After securing the yarn at the back I pulled the needle through the first rung to the front of the work. I have started on the Left hand side but it doesn’t really matter.

  

Mattress Stitch Diagram A

Then I moved across to the Right hand side. If you look carefully at the Red line representing the yarn the needle goes through the First Stitch of the ladder then underneath the rung and up into the Second Stitch.

Mattress Stitch

Next I take the yarn across to the Left hand side. I put the needle through the Second Stitch of the ladder then underneath the rung and up into the Third Stitch.  I continue this weaving pattern through all the stitches until I reached the top.

Mattress Stitch Diagram B

Gently pull the yarn from both ends. This will mean that at the bottom you will be holding where you fastened the yarn.

Mattress Stitch Diagram C

As you pull the yarn the edges will begin to come together.

Mattress Stitch Diagram D

All that is needed now is to sew in the ends and begin knitting again.

Acknowledgements

‘The Knitter’s Handbook’ published by Hamlyn Pg71

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0y3kF_tr4sU&list=PLZOrQFNvYC_tZp3pt_VzwDL3rGVNSLHS6