Monday, 1 June 2015

Egg Cosy Part 3 Extras - Dragon Pattern

This is a continuation for the Extras for the Twisted Shape Egg Cosy made in Part 1.

Extras

If you want to continue to add the extras to make a more advanced Egg Cosy here are the instructions. First of all I found it easier to check placement if I had a model to place the Egg Cosy upon. It isn’t strictly necessary but useful. Here is a picture of what I used but normal Hard Boiled Eggs are fine.

Eggs in Cups











Dragon Egg Cosy

I am using 2.75mm Double Ended Needles

I suggest that you may want to read through and practise some of the stitches beforehand if you are not familiar with increasing stitches and making and I cord.

Cast on 2 stitches


Green and Purple cast on










Knit one row
Purl one row

This will give you a firm base to continue. From now on there will be a great deal of making and decreasing stitches.

Knit one stitch

Now we are going to make a stitch. First we put the needle through the remaining stitch and wind around the yarn as we would for a normal knit stitch.

Making a stitch










Next continue moving the needle through as you would do normally but DO NOT PULL OFF NEEDLE. Instead pull the loop you have on your needle and slip over back onto the original needle. Then knit the stitch you have just made.

Made a Stitch










Knit the remaining stitch.
Purl three stitches.

Made 3 stitches











Knit one stitch, make a stitch Knit 3 stitches.
Purl four stitches

Made 4 stitches










Knit one stitch, make a stitch Knit 4 stitches.
Purl five stitches.

Made 5 stitches










Now we will start to begin the decrease stitches, you already know how to do this from the other patterns.

Knit the first two stitches together.
Knit the remaining stitches

Purl 4 stitches.

Decreased to 4 stitches










Knit 2 together, knit last stitch
Purl 3 stitches

Knit 2 together, knit last stitch
Purl 2 stitches.

You will have now made one spine for the dragon. Continue the process if you want to make another. See below in picture. However make sure that your final decrease leaves 3 NOT 2 STITCHES ON THE NEEDLE if you are going to include the I Cord. You may prefer to cast off now and omit the I Cord. Alternatively you could cast off and sew on spines and then cast on 3 stitches and do the I Cord separately.

1 & 2 Spines









When you have the length you want and have purled the last 3 stitches we can begin the I Cord which will be the Dragon’s tail.

Read this part carefully before beginning.
The process is the more or less the same whether you have just cast on 3 stitches or are continuing on from the spines. However if you have just cast on you may find it easier to PURL 3 stitches first. This is the part why you see I have chosen to use Double Ended Needles.

Make start of I Cord










If you look at the above picture carefully you will see the Green spines are on the Right or Knit Row and the Purple are on the Wrong or Purl Row. Normally after a Purl row we would turn the work around. In this instance we will NOT do this.

Purl side movement









In the above picture you will see that the Purple is placed on the needle as it would be on a normal finished Purl Row before turning. I want you to slide the spines or cast on to where the Green position is situated.

You should now see that the first stitch and the yarn are at opposite ends of the work.

Take a needle and slip it through the first stitch

First Stitch










Take the yarn and wrap around and proceed to do a knit stitch. Knit the other two stitches. DO NOT TURN but slide the work to the top of the needle and repeat the process. You will find that after a few rows you can clearly see a round cord forming.

The question of how long to make the cord is up to you. What I did was after I had knitted at least an inch of cord I sewed the spines into place on the egg cosy. This way I could judge how long the cord was in comparison to the pattern I had in mind.

Sewn on Spines










I then was able to continue to knit the I Cord and work out the length of what I needed. When I thought it was long enough I simply slipped the needle through the 3 stitches and pulled through and off the needle to cast off.

Slip needle through










Next sew the I Cord or Dragon’s tail to the cosy in the way you want. I sewed the tail part way along the bottom for easy before curling upwards. I also spread the cotton a little at the end to make a bit of flair.

Sewn Tail









Then I sewed on the shape of the Dragon’s head and added teeth and eyes to it.

Dragon Head










For the Dragon’s wings Cast on 2 stitches

Knit 1 Row
Purl 1 Row

Continue with this (Stocking Stitch) process and you will begin to see a thin strip developing.

Long Strip










When you have knitted about 4 inches sew the tail end to the roughly the top of the spine. Make sure this is on the same side of the spine as the head.

Top of Spine










This will give you a firm point from which to measure. If you are not confident about sewing at this point you can pin the wing into place.

The length of the strip depends entirely on your wing design. I have tried to make mine sharp and pointy and a bit bat like.

Front View of Wing







Back View of Wing 






Completing the Dragon

This part is all sewn. Sew the Jaw and Neck of the Dragon on the front.

Jaw and Neck







The wing design depends on how you want it. I have sewn sections but you may prefer to sew scales.

Back View of Wing






This completes the Dragon Pattern and it is now ready to be washed and dried.

Embellishments
You can be as intricate as you like in adding to your Dragon Cosy. Suggestions for more detail include Beads for the Dragon’s eyes or adding another wing or the addition of a horn. If you really want to go to town try adding overlapping sequins on the wings for scales.

Finished Owl and Dragon 4 Piece Set